completely defrosted

It is good to be sun-happy in the Sea of Cortez. Beautiful anchorages with white sand beaches only a day sail away, warm, clear, fish filled, manta-ray dancing water, hardly any swell and gentle winds (for the most part). This is the honeymoon cruise we've been looking forward to.

From Cabo San Lucas, we began up the inland side of the Baja peninsula and were delighted to have a Southerly wind pushing us along nearly all the way to La Paz. The first day out was dreadfully hot, so we took turns jumping in the water. A few hours later we spotted a momma whale with her baby also heading up the coast. We overnighted in Los Frailes, a pretty little bay just south of the marine sanctuary, Cabo Pulmo. In the morning, to our delight, the baby whale spent hours playing in the bay not far from the boat. Later that afternoon, we decided to take advantage of the wind and continue to Bahia de los Muertos.

Los Muertos was quiet and well protected from the wind, so we stayed for three nights, spending the days swimming, paddling, and reading. One end of the bay has a small hotel with a sandy beach, and the other end is stacked with pangas that went out fishing at dawn each morning. There was also a little restuaunt with a great view that we had dinner at with a couple from another boat. Had we not begun to run out of fresh fruit and veggies, we would've stayed a few more days.

Jumping manata rays accompanied us on our most recent leg up to La Paz. We call them firecrackers since at night when it's dark and the only thing we hear is their slapping on the water.

We're going to use La Paz as a base for the next month, exploring the outlying islands, and returning about once a week to replenish fresh food, fuel, do laundry, etc. I was leary about the kayaks being our primary means of getting to and and from shore, but it seems to be working just fine. That's me below with the laundry, the laptop, and the wheelchair.

We had an exciting morning yesterday. Alex jumped into the water after a runaway piece of tupperware and found the current too strong to swim back to the boat. He gave into the current and swam to another boat. The couple on the boat seemed to enjoy their surprise guest and suggested a cocktail when I arrivcd with the kayak.

cabo san lucas

Kristi's parents came to visit us in Cabo for a few days this past week. Above is the view from their hotel room balcony. In the background you see a big cruise ship; in the foreground is our little Fjordmus. There was a lot of swell in the days preceding their visit and everyone on anchor was complaining about the sleepless nights. One guy even put his sleeping pad on the floor to keep from falling out of his bunk. So, we were quite happy to retreat to a hotel bed for a few days, and wake to lazy days, playing poolside scrabble, and wondering where dad and Alex snuck off to with the kayaks.

We're getting ready to leave tomorrow, and plan on spending a week or so poking our way up past Cabo Pulmo to La Paz. With new lures ready we hope to be eating ceviche along the way.

For those of you heading down after us, we found a great restaruant, La Bohemia on Mechor Ocampo (near the main supermarket). Great food, very reasonable. The lemon drink is especially yummy on a hot day. There is also a museum across the plaza from Cabo Coffee. It's not the best museum, but the pictures of Cabo from before the boom are worth the stroll if you are in the area.

pancakes & tsunamis

day 1. champagne & pancakes to celebrate our 9 am arrival. afternoon nap. late night unplanned swim from kayak delays plan to go ashore for much anticipated drinks with umbrellas.

day 2. tsunami warning. we spend the day sailing and fishing away from shore. this was clearly fate making sure that we arrive on the 26th since we also left on the 26th of November, and we got married on the 26th of May.

day 3. we finally get to shore after 2 weeks. yoga, beer and laundry. in that order.

days on and on. kayaking, swimming, and sunshine. happily ever after.