summer plans

Alex hiked up to take the above picture of Honeymoon Cove last month. We took the day off from sailing and paddled across the channel from Puerto Escondido. It was a fun day, and we regretted not planning ahead and bringing gear to camp the night on the beach. After leaving Loreto, we headed up to Bahia Conception for about a week, and then to the French-influenced town of Santa Rosalia. From there we crossed the Sea of Cortz to Guaymas, where we're in the process of hauling the boat out for the summer. We're escaping the heat and heading off to visit much missed family and friends, and decide what and where our next step might be. Circling the Pacific Ocean remains high on the list.

While in the states, we're taking advantage of the cool mountain weather and are currently in Crested Butte, CO until the end of August before heading back to Calif.

San Evaristo to Loreto

We weren't catching any fish until about a month ago. Really. All this time on the great big blue and trolling lures much of the time, but still nothing. Until we met The Amazing Mylan. While on anchor in San Evaristo, a lone kayaker paddled up to the boat and asked about the weather forecast. Turns out, he was working his way down from Loreto to La Paz alone in a sit on top kayak with a small sail. And even cooler, he had to be over 70 years old. We eagerly had him over for dinner to hear how his adventure was going and about the 25 years he'd spent training Peace Corps volunteers in West Africa before retiring as a gardener in Kauai. But, back to the fish. Mylan had too many lures and gave us a few, which have been working like clockwork since then. Since he isn't the first person to provide fishing advice, and suggest a no-fail lure (it's a toss-up between who has more advice to dole out, fishermen or sailors), I can only attribute our new found lucky lures to his good karma.



This is the elementary school in San Evaristo, where we spent a few days helping with science week. The last day, the kids broke pinatas which they'd made the day before. Great fun with some learning about action and reaction thrown in for good measure.

We are currently anchored at Isla Coronado, near Loreto, and will spend about another week exploring the islands in the area before continuing northward. We took a month go the 100 miles here from La Paz, and could have spent more time in any of the bays along the way. Cell phone coverage was nearly obsolete however, and we thought our families would want to hear from us. Alex did, hear a rumor about a hill with cell coverage and hiked up it one afternoon to make successful calls to our mothers.

Some more pictures from the past month, including the amazing rocks in Puerto Los Gatos, flying our new spinnaker, and Kristi's new haircut and her handsome stylist who accepts guacamole as payment.

scary wildlife

The picture above is a dolphin scull that is part of an entire skeleton that a friend had on his boat when we caught up with him for on Isla Espiritu Santo. The Whale Museum in La Paz sent him and some college students to clean the carcass and bring it back. Usually an evening with Jack looks more like dinner and a music session, but chips and salsa over a dolphin carcass was an interesting twist.

In general, the wildlife has been both alive and friendly, and we're delighted to share our days with egrets, herons, osprey, pelicans, sealions, colorful fish, dolphins, rays, and just yesterday, an octopus swimming under our boat. However, sometimes, I can't help but feel that the creatures are out to get us. An evening paddle in a bug infested estuary on Isla San Jose over two weeks ago that left me with nasty bites on my face, neck, leg and hands which still itch. Watching egrets settling into the sunset was brilliant and sure made the bites worth it though.


The following afternoon, a swarm of bees came in search of fresh water and didn't leave until the next night. We hid out in the boat all day, only sticking our heads out when a couple from another boat ventured over to say hello. They suggested we place a bowl of fresh water on the bow to draw the bees away from the cockpit. They must have a much longer boat, because all this did was increase the number buzzing guests. The next morning, before the bees returned, we pulled up the anchor and scurried off to Isla San Francisco, making sure not to have any fresh water outside during the daytime.

A week later, I was swimming about 30 feet off the starboard side of the boat in Bahia Agua Verde and saw a pretty big shark fin about 100 feet off the bow. Yup, it was scary. I swam as quickly as I could (which isn't saying much) to the boat, hoping my dangly legs looked too scrawny to be a good meal. Just as I was heaving myself into the kayak, a panga with a local family motored up to warn us about the shark in the bay. As it turns out, it was a young whale shark, which is a docile, filter feeding shark. It stayed in bay for a few days, giving us a couple opportunities to paddle along side it as it fed. Alex even jumped in the water with his mask and swam with it.

To top off the wild creature experience, I was on the beach one afternoon with a Christine from another boat. We'd gone paddling when the afternoon wind started to howl, so we decided to wait it out over lunch and a beer. The neighborhood kids took a liking to our kayak, practicing their paddle stokes in the sand. Soon, the neighborhood dogs also came by to say hello. One of them, while quite friendly, had a look about him that suggested he might mark his territory if you stopped petting him. Which is exactly what he did on my leg. Thinking quickly, Christine poured beer on me, thinking human urine is a remedy for stingray wounds, so beer must work for canine urine.

completely defrosted

It is good to be sun-happy in the Sea of Cortez. Beautiful anchorages with white sand beaches only a day sail away, warm, clear, fish filled, manta-ray dancing water, hardly any swell and gentle winds (for the most part). This is the honeymoon cruise we've been looking forward to.

From Cabo San Lucas, we began up the inland side of the Baja peninsula and were delighted to have a Southerly wind pushing us along nearly all the way to La Paz. The first day out was dreadfully hot, so we took turns jumping in the water. A few hours later we spotted a momma whale with her baby also heading up the coast. We overnighted in Los Frailes, a pretty little bay just south of the marine sanctuary, Cabo Pulmo. In the morning, to our delight, the baby whale spent hours playing in the bay not far from the boat. Later that afternoon, we decided to take advantage of the wind and continue to Bahia de los Muertos.

Los Muertos was quiet and well protected from the wind, so we stayed for three nights, spending the days swimming, paddling, and reading. One end of the bay has a small hotel with a sandy beach, and the other end is stacked with pangas that went out fishing at dawn each morning. There was also a little restuaunt with a great view that we had dinner at with a couple from another boat. Had we not begun to run out of fresh fruit and veggies, we would've stayed a few more days.

Jumping manata rays accompanied us on our most recent leg up to La Paz. We call them firecrackers since at night when it's dark and the only thing we hear is their slapping on the water.

We're going to use La Paz as a base for the next month, exploring the outlying islands, and returning about once a week to replenish fresh food, fuel, do laundry, etc. I was leary about the kayaks being our primary means of getting to and and from shore, but it seems to be working just fine. That's me below with the laundry, the laptop, and the wheelchair.

We had an exciting morning yesterday. Alex jumped into the water after a runaway piece of tupperware and found the current too strong to swim back to the boat. He gave into the current and swam to another boat. The couple on the boat seemed to enjoy their surprise guest and suggested a cocktail when I arrivcd with the kayak.

cabo san lucas

Kristi's parents came to visit us in Cabo for a few days this past week. Above is the view from their hotel room balcony. In the background you see a big cruise ship; in the foreground is our little Fjordmus. There was a lot of swell in the days preceding their visit and everyone on anchor was complaining about the sleepless nights. One guy even put his sleeping pad on the floor to keep from falling out of his bunk. So, we were quite happy to retreat to a hotel bed for a few days, and wake to lazy days, playing poolside scrabble, and wondering where dad and Alex snuck off to with the kayaks.

We're getting ready to leave tomorrow, and plan on spending a week or so poking our way up past Cabo Pulmo to La Paz. With new lures ready we hope to be eating ceviche along the way.

For those of you heading down after us, we found a great restaruant, La Bohemia on Mechor Ocampo (near the main supermarket). Great food, very reasonable. The lemon drink is especially yummy on a hot day. There is also a museum across the plaza from Cabo Coffee. It's not the best museum, but the pictures of Cabo from before the boom are worth the stroll if you are in the area.

pancakes & tsunamis

day 1. champagne & pancakes to celebrate our 9 am arrival. afternoon nap. late night unplanned swim from kayak delays plan to go ashore for much anticipated drinks with umbrellas.

day 2. tsunami warning. we spend the day sailing and fishing away from shore. this was clearly fate making sure that we arrive on the 26th since we also left on the 26th of November, and we got married on the 26th of May.

day 3. we finally get to shore after 2 weeks. yoga, beer and laundry. in that order.

days on and on. kayaking, swimming, and sunshine. happily ever after.

Batteries for Lobster

We are in Magdalena Bay with free wireless from the fishing camp.

From San Diego, we sailed 4 days to Isla Cedros. It began great and quickly turned awful. The gal who sold us the boat came to see us off with her dad. We really enjoy them both and were happy to connect again. A sunny morning with moderate winds soon turned into BIG ugly seas and wind and rain nearly the entire trip. I gave it my best the first day at the tiller, but I was seasick the entire trip and of very little help. Alex, bless his heart, was loving it. Although when the winds reached gale force on the second day, he did admit to being a bit frightened. Nonetheless, he was at the tiller and singing what I now think of as the Kristi Song.

We anchored next to a colony of elephant seals on Isla Cedros for two nights before sailing another few days to Turtle Bay, a quick stopover in Bahia Santa Maria, and then Magdalena Bay. These passages were much nicer, with plenty of wind to sail but without the awful gut wrenching swells. I'm really enjoying not having the motor running all of the time.

We traded 4 AA batteries for our lobster lunch yesterday (fishermen needed them for their GPS and we could have taken more, but even one hardly fit in our biggest pot) and this morning a whale surfaced not less than 30 feet from the boat while I was reading (The Story of Edgar Sawtelle, very good so far).

It's dark as I'm writing this, and we just heard a huge splash next to the boat, no doubt a whale. This just gets better and better.

how we chose our boat

In response to a recent comment about boat specs...

Our boat is a Canadian built, 1981 J.J Taylor Contessa 26. We bought the boat in the Spring 2008 with this trip in mind. Our criteria for a sailboat revolved around three things: seaworthiness, accessibility and affordability.

Finding a seaworthy boat is easy, as there are lots a great boats available. Accessible was a bit more tricky. I've been paralyzed from the chest down since I was 20 as a result of a motorcycle accident, and have used a wheelchair ever since then. The thought of customizing a boat for my chair seemed financially out of reach, but more importantly, not having done this, I wasn't sure what I'd want and it seemed crazy to build a boat without first hand experience. So, we chose something simple and are essentially customizing as we go. It isn't perfect, but it works for us, and if we ever do have another boat, we'll have a lot more knowledge about what we want.

What we've done to make the Contessa work for me is make the space down below all one level. This allows me to simply crawl around and it gives us a bit more storage. In this regard, a small boat is nice because it is a shorter distance to crawl from A to B. A big concern was how Alex would do with this set-up, but it seems to be fine for him ever since he started doing yoga. The transition between below and above deck is less than half a foot, so it is just a matter of lifting myself in and out.

At this point, the boat is not set up for me to singlehand, but there is a lot I can do to share the work load. In the cockpit, I have a trapezoid shaped seat that spans the benches, providing a platform to sit on the high side while driving when the boat heels over. Additionally, just about all of the lines, including the roller furling run back to the cockpit. We've not made the modifications for me to raise the main or set or raise the anchor. But for now, we have a boat that is very manageable between the two of us.

While affordability is relative and taking a year or so to travel about for the simple pleasure of it is nothing short of extravagant, we kept the budget under control by living well within our means the past couple of years, finding a boat we could afford and doing 98% of the work to get her ready ourselves. It was also to our fortune that Alex's father recently ended his own 10+ years of cruising and generously donated a tremendous amount of gear. I scoured Craigslist and sale bins for used and discounted gear. Alex, with much appreciated help from our fathers, re-did the wiring, installed our SSB, VHF, watermaker and solar panels. We also re-did the plumbing so that when we are at sea we can flush into the ocean instead of the holding tank. The amazing thing, when I look back at it, is that the work, including a haul-out, bottom job, installing new thru-hulls and moving out of our apartment, happened within three months.


Also thought I'd share the artwork on the back of our SSB radio. These pieces were commissioned for $1 each by Tristan, a renowned SF artist. The bottom piece is our boat. The moose was a gift from my dad and is a tribute to the boat name's Fjordmus, which is Norwegian for Fjord mouse. But since it's pronounced fjord"moose", we thought the grog drinking elk was appropriate. How we got the name is the subject of a later post.

a cool map and a mystery

Wellness Week is about to come to an end. We've been doing laps in the pool everyday, and the watermaker and the SSB works, so we're ready to leave for MEXICO!! Today, we're scrambling about doing laundry, taking care of taxes, grocery shopping and sending the nice frying pan that I accidentally brought along back to my Mom.

Yesterday we also set up a new little mom-gizmo that will allow us to send an email to our families, letting them know that we are okay. It also locates us on a map, which is available for anyone to see. Every time we hit a little button, a new waypoint will be recorded along our route.

We'll leave tomorrow morning-ish, after one last swim, and possibly stop in Ensenada, which is about 65 miles from here. Most likely, we'll not stop and push on to Turtle Bay which is almost 300 miles away. This will be the longest non-stop passage I've made yet, and I'd be lying if I didn't admit to being a bit nervous. But, I'm more happy-excited than nervous. Up until now, it's been short hops from comfortable harbor to harbor. For the next 3-4 weeks we'll make longer passages and the few stops before reaching Cabo have very limited resources. But, we're expecting it to be beautiful and maybe even warmer. Our itinerary remains loose and we're shopping for a month, so that if we find an anchorage we like, we can stay and explore for a few days.

Finally, the mystery. We went to look at kayaks a few days ago and while poking around in one of the hatches, we found chocolate! They were yummy Lindt truffles. We decided it was a good omen and ended up buying the boat, but how the chocolate got there is still a mystery. Alex swears he didn't place them there, and since we ate the chocolate I didn't want to ask any of the sales people in case they were theirs.

we reach the hut

The past two months have been like a hut trip with no cabin at the end of the trail. We've been wet, cold and exhausted, with moments of sun peeking through the trees along the trail. But a few days ago, we arrived in San Diego and were welcomed into the SD Yacht Club. The lap pool, sauna & spa is a much welcomed treat after the cramped, I mean, cozy, living space on a 26' boat. Last night, we brought our dinner inside and sat by the fire, playing scrabble while it rained outside.

The series of storms that slammed the Calif coastline last week was pretty exciting. Instead of just a few days in Dana Pt, we found ourselves again waiting for a safe weather window. We spent the first day of the storm on anchor, drinking hot chocolate and watching huge waves crashing over the breakwater. Yeah, over the breakwater. After it calmed down, we moved to a slip in the harbor. At the first sign of a break we scrambled down to San Diego. Probably could have waited another day, because the swells were huge and it took us 18 hrs, rather than the 12 we'd predicted.

Today, Alex is starting up the watermaker (desalinator). Keep your fingers crossed that it works, as this is the last thing keeping us from making the next jump to Cabo. While not absolutely necessary, the watermaker will undoubtably make our lives more comfortable.

We're still not exactly sure what our Mexico itinary will be, but we insured the boat so we can go as far as Costa Rica. One of our tasks this week is to read up on weather patterns to decide when and where to head after reaching Cabo.

We spent the last week on a mooring in Avalon (Catalina Island), enjoying blue skies and 70 degree weather. The windless days were perfect for paddling about the island and poking around the little town. Since we stayed on a mooring, going ashore involved a five minute paddle to the dingy dock and another five minute walk to town. Town had everything we needed: groceries, showers, laundry, post office, library.

During the summer months, Avalon bursts at its seams with a population of 10,000 tourists who come on private yachts and ferries. It is doubtful that we would have even been able to find a mooring here a few months ago. The winter, however, is a quieter population of 3500 with a handful of transient boaters like ourselves and an occasional tourist from the mainland. Many of the restaurants and shops on the water front are closed for the winter, but tucked away, here and there are the shops and places where the locals eat and frequent enough to remain open. There are a few cars, but mostly people get around with golf carts, which gives the place a Disneylandish atmosphere. The most prominent building on the waterfront is a casino/theater that was built by the same Wrigley who owned the Chicago Cubs and once owned much of Avalon. Apparently the Cubs held practices on the island in years past. They now play regular movies at the theater; this week the Princess and the Frog was playing, so we went to see it as a way to check out theater. It really was the pretty and I could picture one time residents, Marilyn Monroe and Joe DiMaggio watching a show there.

A cruise ship arrived and anchored at the end of the harbor today, bringing a swell of tourists, who are shuttled to shore to buy ice cream cones and trinkets, dip their feet in the salt water and rent golf carts for the 45 minute scenic tour. It looks like a good rescue ship; I should find out it's route. I've decided that in the event of needing to be rescued, I want to be picked up by a cruise ship, preferably a luxurious one. I paddled out to the ship, but they didn't offer either a soak in their hot tub or any Grey Poupon. Next time I'll have to show more leg.

We've finally figured out the boat insurance. Finding company that would fully insure a small, 30 year old boat for offshore cruising wasn't easy. And then we found out that Mexico requires you you to buy insurance from a Mexican company as well. Sheesh. I guess not everybody gets this insurance, but if you are boarded and don't have it, they can impound your boat.

The sailing since we've left, by the way, has been pretty uneventful. The winds have been light, and occasionally there have been big swells that would have me throwing up, were it not for drugs. The log records some wind, but still, we've motor-sailed much of the way. The trip over from Catalina Island was nice however, as the winds picked up at the end of the day and we were able to turn off the motor. Alex found a used spinnaker in Newport, and with the spinnaker alone and the waves pushing us, the GPS was showing 4 to 5 plus knots (this is great for our boat). It's the first time we've flown a spinnaker on this boat, and the big red kite itself was a nice site.

We're currently in Dana Point, and will probably spend a couple of days here, before our final U.S. port in San Diego.

Monterey to Newport Beach

We knew this trip would be challenging. What we didn't expect was the ways it has been especially challenging. Engine problems, storage in small places, cold nights, seasickness, these we expected. But, we hadn't given much thought to how rough fatigue can be on a relationship. I recently told this to a couple with two young kids and they both smiled, graciously reminding me that we're not the first couple to face this. So, we're both adjusting, learning to be more patient and figuring out how to take care of each other and ourselves.

Our stay in Monterey coincided with the cold spell that dusted places like Santa Rosa with snow. On a couple of mornings the boat and docks were covered with frost, and we considered getting a space heater. But, we figured this was silly since we're heading south and really don't have the extra space. Regardless, Monterey during the holidays is a cozy place to wander around when the sky is gray. The historical district is charming and lit up like a Christmas Tree. There is also a well connected pathway of trails along the waterfront and into downtown, which makes it an especially nice place to be without a car. Within a 15- 20 minute walk we could be at the library, Trader Joes, the marine store, the movie theater, or the museum. One of the things I'm most enjoying about our trip so far, is the walking. My life before had been a lot of driving, so this is a welcome change of pace.

After changing one of the hoses along the fuel line, the engine is now running as it should be. We waited a few more days for the weather to clear, filled the water tank, stocked up on soups and headed along down the coast. We spend a night anchored at San Simeon looking up at Hearst Castle. It was pretty, and we spotted our first whale, but the boat tossed back and forth pretty awful, so we pulled up the anchor and went to Port San Luis. The highlight of Port San Luis was a well deserved soak in the mineral springs. Up until this point, we'd had the luxury of a dock to bring the boat up along side when we went ashore. Port San Luis, however, only had tall fishing piers. Boaters anchor out or tie up to a mooring ball and use their dinghy to go ashore. Our dinghy options are a 2 person kayak and a windsurfing board with a paddle. That day, we picked the kayak. We loaded ourselves, my chair, and a daypack into the kayak and paddled towards the beach. We thought we'd timed it pretty well, but our first surf landing wasn't pretty. The waves pushed us sideways and over we went. Fortunately, it was warm and there was still a hot spring in the future. The trip back to the boat was less eventful, but we still had a good laugh, as we forgot to bring headlamps and hadn't left a light on to help us find the boat. That night seemed especially dark and even the sea otters which are terribly cute during the day, were a bit creepy as they stared at us paddling by.

The next stop was Santa Barbara, where we stayed for a couple of days, waiting for the end of a gale warning, hoping to make it to Newport Beach by Christmas day. We arrived late Christmas eve and enjoyed the next few days with family. Kari and Tyler joined us for a day sail and a night tour of the lighted boats and houses in the harbor.

We've been in Newport Beach for about a week, getting our boat documents in order to cross the boarder. My guess is that we'll be leaving for San Diego in a few days and Mexico soon after that.

The most used boat in Newport harbor is a 20 ft electric boat called a Duffy. They are basically a golf cart for the water. It looks like the boats from Disneyland's Jungle Cruise ride. We've seen college kids, families, older couples, even single people touring the harbor at all times of the day. They simply crack us up. I wonder if they have Duffy races.

Kristi